With brink of fall, it’s a good time for gathering seeds

Have you noticed the light is changing and the sun has moved a good way to the south?

Mornings are chilly and the welcome sunlight is not as strong as it was a month ago. Foliage is drying and coloring up.

It’s time to save any seeds for the next season before they drop and sow themselves. Seed from vegetables and flowers can be gathered now. You’ll want to look for mature and dry seeds no matter which category of plants you choose.

Some seeds are apt to be propelled a distance into the garden with the slightest disturbance from us, the wind or a creature. Others simply fall out of a dry pod when gathering. Thus, time to act for these is now. One way to gather these active seeds is to cover with a paper or fine-mesh bag before fully ripened.

When you hear rattling in the bag, carefully remove it and package the collected seeds in either envelopes or small jars. I found some mini Ziplock storage bags in the bead department of the craft store. Lifetime supply for little money. Hint: Carry some with you for gathering seeds while out in the garden or away from home. Some of the ones treated this way are annual poppies, columbine, lobelias (red and blue), penstemon, Siberian iris, phlox.

Other seeds must dry on their plants or vines such as beans or peas. It’s a Zen-like chore removing bean and pea seeds from pods that can be very satisfying. If you should need to gather seeds before fully ripe because of weather or life circumstances, try letting them dry in a basket with a tight weave or in paper bags. They might be at the stage where they can fully ripen off the plant.

Being completely dry before storage is key. Mold will form if any dampness is present. In the spring, soaking overnight might hasten germination. Some very hard-shelled seeds might need nicking with a knife to allow moisture in.

Garlic and potato starts for next season are not seeds but parts of actual fruits. Always choose the plumpest and most promising of tubers or bulbs. Same is true of flowers or other vegetables. You’ll want to preserve and pass on only the most promising seeds. The potatoes should be stored in sand in a cool dark place and cut into pieces including an eye in the spring when planting. You’ll want to set aside garlic in a cool dark place also, even when tempted to use the best. Break the head into cloves for planting. I plant mine in the fall when other bulbs are put in the ground. I don’t mulch, but it can be done. After a few years, you will have a collection of the best and most adaptable for your growing region.

Saving seeds from tomatoes and cucumbers has an added process which is not as difficult as it sounds. Choose a favorite open pollinated specimen (not a hybrid) and squeeze or spoon the seeds and gel into a glass or jar. Add water and stir. The gel will initially cling to the seeds but, after a few days, will begin to ferment, thus being removable from the actual seed which will sink to the bottom. Don’t hurry this. Carefully pour off the water and any debris.

Dry the seeds with paper towel or lay on a paper plate. Allow to fully dry for a few days. Seeds might stick but just scrape them off and if completely dry store in envelopes and place in a jar. I suggest keeping on a nearby windowsill so you can monitor progress. Peppers can just be dried without any processing but air-drying.

Squashes, pumpkins and melons are easy to collect but also need to be completely dry for storage. All of these cucurbits cross pollinate very easily, so unless you grow only one kind or isolate or protect from insect pollination, you never know what you’ll get. It’s possible to prevent cross-pollination but lots of extra work. Of course, if you’re aiming for the world record largest pumpkin, it might be worth it.

One reason I suggest jars for storage is that mice have decimated my collection many times. After you’ve taken all this care, you don’t want to sacrifice your seeds.

Some vegetables are biennials, which means they put out a root or vegetable the first year and then send up a seed stalk or pod the second. Radishes, turnips, rutabagas, broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage are included. Since the plants will freeze here in Vermont, you’d have to harvest, overwinter in soil or sand and replant to continue growth next spring. Rutabagas and turnips are the only ones which might survive winter outdoors.

To check the viability of your saved seeds or even store-bought seeds, moisten a square of paper towel. Place a small amount of your seed for testing on the towel. Fold and place in a jar or plastic bag. After a few days check to see if any have germinated. Going by percentages, if none or only a couple have germinated, don’t waste your energy. However, if more than half have germinated, plant accordingly. Most seeds have a viability of three to five years if stored correctly. Parsley and allium family seeds are short-lived and need renewal yearly.

Another reason to save seeds, besides self-sufficiency, is for sharing with friends. Some families have saved their favorite tomato, garlic, bean or potato for generations. This is how we are able to have heirlooms.

Perhaps you’ll save something that was the star of your garden this season?