Celebrate May with braised spring vegetables, use greens

We’ve arrived at May. This is the month many say is their favorite as grass greens, daffodils spring up and our trees leaf out. With the promise of the growing season ahead of us, we nurture dreams of fresh produce in abundance for our kitchens.

Farm stands that were closed all winter emerge with their first offerings, meager at first, but much anticipated and appreciated. In no time, we’ll make our way to the local weekly farmers markets that keep us content for the months to come.

There’s not much yet at this point beyond the last of the winter roots, and spring was a bit stubborn arriving this year. If we garden, we tuck in lettuce and other cold-tolerant vegetable starts, not forgetting the sun-loving pansies; their edible blooms will garnish our plates for many weeks.

We know the seasons have finally turned when we find those first spring-dug parsnips, or new turnips and radishes, with all their glorious greens as well. After a long, cold New England winter, this is finally the colorful light at the end of a gray tunnel.

We feast on snow-white turnips, often the sweet hakurei variety, Easter egg radishes and all those fresh green tops. Unfortunately, we often find them with the tops already lopped off, such a waste. If you do find them whole, don’t toss the tops. Both of these vegetables have delicious greens that add many nutrients we crave in this early season, almost a spring tonic in their own right, and they are as versatile as any other.

Sweet and tender when young, turnip greens are an amazing addition to the spring plate and can usually be found without damage from those pesky flea beetles. Radishes too! They are not just for salads, raw or cooked the possibilities are limited only by the imagination. Toss them in a soup, make pesto out of them, steam them or braise them along with the vegetables as we’re doing here.

I’ve added a little lift to this dish with some Meyer lemons, still in season although not grown here of course. If you can’t find them, any lemon will do, or other citrus. Blood oranges are great, grapefruit, or in a pinch, a drizzle of cider vinegar to add a bit of the tart.

The white wine adds its own little touch here, but you can substitute a favorite stock. The honey mellows out any possible bitterness from the greens, but maple syrup will serve the purpose as well, and this year’s crop was fantastic. With a dish like this, exact amounts are not necessary, so taste as you go and adjust to what you like.

This is quick to put together and cook, and you can serve it with either shrimp or fish that you poached in the same braising liquid once the vegetables are done. Double duty for the liquid, and even more flavor for the seafood.

It’s spring after all, we don’t have to simmer supper for hours, but in my book, you do have to garnish it with spring blossoms.

Braised spring turnips and radishes

Let’s make this easy. First, zest and juice two lemons into a 2-cup measuring cup and add enough white wine to make 2/3 cup, then water to make a cup. Add a couple of tablespoons local honey or maple syrup and a pinch of salt and pepper, and whisk it well. Set aside.

In a large skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of butter and add an equal amount of olive oil. When ready, add:

• one plump shallot, minced
• three or four garlic cloves, finely minced

Sauté for about a minute and a half, you’re looking for softening here, not color, then add:

• bunch of spring turnips, greens and all, halved
• bunch of spring radishes, greens and all, halved

Add the juice and wine mixture, bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cover. Let cook 8 to 10 minutes, until a paring knife inserted into the turnips tells you they are tender. The radishes will be done too.

Place in a serving bowl and sprinkle with chives fresh from the garden, and maybe a few pansies for garnish.

Make it a full meal with fish or shrimp

This is a delightful light spring supper that hardly takes any time at all. If you are serving this with fish or shrimp, take advantage of the beautiful braising liquid. Remove the vegetables from the pan and cover to keep warm. Place the fish or shrimp in the pan, cover and cook gently until tender, just a couple of minutes if shrimp, a few more if a white fish.

Serve everything together with the liquid. Hearty appetites will want a little rice on the side.

Radish top pesto

Use nuts here if you like or let the radishes serve as that textural element. I often do this because there are nut allergies in our family, but it’s tasty either way; just take a few minutes to toast the nuts if using.

A food processor is easiest for this, but you can use a mortar and pestle, or finely chop by hand. Combine:

• three or four garlic cloves
• six radishes or 1/3 cup toasted nuts of choice
• greens from the radishes
• handful of parsley or chives
• zest and juice of one lemon

Process until coarse, then drizzle in 1/3 of a cup or so of fruity olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Use as you would any pesto. Smear it on a crostini, drape it over pasta or stir into soups and stews for a lively accent. Add it half and half to mayonnaise for a vibrant sandwich spread.