Potatoes work well as star of the meal or backup singer

When I was a kid, many of us grew up on potatoes. They appeared on our plates most evenings in some form or another because they were also my dad’s favorite. We enjoyed them mashed, boiled, fried, baked, twice-baked, puréed, roasted and scalloped. Potatoes were part of just about every soup, stew, casserole or pot pie. They were always there, and we loved them.

Of course, potatoes were not just part of healthy dinners. French fries and potato chips were ever present as well. Even now, they are my favorite cheat food, but I seldom add them to the grocery basket since I cannot eat just one or two chips.

We’ve all cooked and eaten potatoes every way possible, and I have only met two kinds I didn’t like. (Hint: One was canned, the other mashed in a blender to a gluey mass. I shudder.).

Potatoes remain one of my top three deserted-island foods because they are tasty, versatile and happy as the star or backup singer.

Sad are the times when low-carb diets shun them, putting them on the black list of starchy vegetables to avoid like the plague. But they offer us more than just their starch and comfort. There’s a powerhouse of nutrition encased in these humble little spuds.

First, they have no fat. None, saturated or otherwise. Nutrient dense, an average potato has around 100 calories, 26 grams of carbs, 2 grams of fiber and 3 grams of protein. It is a great source of vitamins C (25 percent of your daily needs), B6 and minerals — potassium (four times that of a banana), iron and calcium. They are filled with antioxidants. Additionally, the deeper the potato color, the higher the mineral content, so keep that in mind when purchasing. Blue potatoes are your friend.

The potato itself is a superstar and doesn’t need to be doused in sour cream, butter or gravy to shine, and frankly these toppings are also the source of much of their bad reputation. But a few healthier ingredients that enhance the flavor are always welcome because, undressed, they can be on the bland side. Luckily, even in produce-challenged February in the north, we still have access to lots of local root vegetables, and we’ll make use of them here.

Most of us have had roasted potatoes of some sort. They are simple to toss in the oven on any weeknight and always a crowd pleaser, especially if you smash them halfway through cooking for more crispy surface area. Garlic, lemon and rosemary are a favorite flavor combo that works on lots of foods, so refreshing and delightful, and potatoes are a perfect canvas for this trio.

The potatoes I found at a farm stand recently were a quirky little calico variety I’d not seen before. They are small and waxy with a lovely yellow flesh. You can use any smallish potato you like. Fingerlings would be really tasty; red bliss are perfect as well.

Don’t like carrots? How about rutabaga or Chioggia beets? Turnips, parsnips, butternut squash, even winter radishes could all add their personality to the dish. Or use just potatoes and onion and call it a day.

Swap out a yellow onion or even a leek if you don’t care for purple onions, and adjust the garlic and herbs to your own desire. All these, the garlic too, are locally available and not shipped from other climates and continents, so their carbon footprint is tiny.

The lemons? Well, we don’t grow them here, but neither can we produce chocolate and coffee, and one wouldn’t want to be without these staples. So, we can gladly trade our apples in season for citrus in return, and all the other treats from warmer places. After all, fair is fair.

What’s your favorite way to eat a potato? Can you stop eating potato chips after only one?

Roasted and smashed garlic and lemon potatoes

Preheat your oven to 450 degrees (425 convection) and place a rimmed baking sheet on the middle rack to heat up. Yes, you can also do this in an air fryer, just follow the directions for roasted potatoes.

Assemble your vegetables:
1 pound (500 grams) small firm potato such as calico or red bliss
6 ounces (180 grams) carrots
1 purple onion
4-6 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary
the same of fresh parsley.

Scrub potatoes and pierce each once with a sharp knife. Chop your carrots, slice your onion, mince your garlic, rosemary and parsley. Now you are ready to roast.

Once the oven is hot, carefully remove the pan, drizzle with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil and place vegetables in separate sections (depending on their size, they may cook at different times), making sure all sides are coated with the oil, and everything is in a single layer. Season with salt and pepper and roast for about 20-25 minutes depending on the size of your potatoes. You want them to be mostly cooked at this point.

Remove the sheet from the oven and, with the bottom of a heavy glass or measuring cup, gently squash down the potatoes, keeping them mostly intact but the outer skins cracked. If they don’t squash easily, return to the oven to cook a few more minutes.

Combine the garlic and rosemary (hold off on the parsley) and a bit more olive oil and sprinkle on top of the vegetables. Return the pan to the oven and roast another 10 to 15 minutes, removing the onions sooner if they start to brown too much.

Once everything is nicely browned and where you want them, and the house smells like potato heaven, remove from the oven and add:

zest of a fresh lemon
2 tablespoons of fresh lemon juice

Mix well and add the reserved parsley, perhaps a bit more olive oil. Taste for salt and pepper. Plate up, making sure to add all the crispy bits of potato and garlic from the sheet pan.