So, should we invite Brussel sprouts to the holiday table?
They are big and plump this year, little cabbage-like buds that you either love or hate. Actually, you can feel both ways about Brussels sprouts since so often they are cooked to grey mush and smell up the house. A few childhood memories here.
But I gave them a second chance in my adult life, and I’m glad I did, because I really do love them if cooked properly. Roasted in the oven, or atop the stove, these sweet and slightly bitter sprouts are delightful, and the odor doesn’t linger in the house for days.
A northern staple, picked in late fall, they have a long growing season, but luckily, they can stay in the field right up to snow. They keep well, and we’ll enjoy them all winter, or at least as long as the supplies last.
In the north, we take advantage of what we have that grows well in our cold climate, and these sprouts are a regular on restaurant menus from pubs to fine dining. They are abundant and relatively inexpensive, and you have little waste because you can cook up just what you want and save the rest for another meal.
I’ve grown them in my own garden and most of the time was successful, with an odd year here and there where all I got was tiny little marbles, probably in dry years when I didn’t water as faithfully as I should.
The sprouts, which really do resemble little cabbages, form at the base of each leaf on the stalk of the plant. My favorite part when growing them was stripping most of the leaves off, except the top ones at the end of the season so the energy goes into the sprouts and not the leaves. The garden looked like it was full of little palm trees.
If you can find them at the farm stands still on the stalk, it’s a good thing because they will keep even longer.
A member of the brassica family, sprouts, like all its relatives, are low in calories but filled with vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, phytonutrients, fiber and are good for your immune system and bones. There is also evidence they can help ward off cancers and diabetes. All good reasons to give them that second chance.
Lots of folks love to eat them deep fried, no surprise, with lots of little charred petals, but a soft interior. In my book, they are better roasted, and if you top them with some toasted garlic chips or crispy shallots and drizzle them with balsamic vinegar, you have a holiday-worthy side dish you can also enjoy any night of the week.
This dish is quick to make, and if you are having a gathering, do all the cooking in advance and rewarm, just don’t add the chips until ready to serve.
Pan-roasted Brussels sprouts with toasted garlic chips
Place a large skillet over medium heat and add:
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
4 thinly sliced garlic cloves
Cook gently until browned on both sides. If the heat is too hot, the garlic will burn and get quite bitter, so keep the heat under control and watch them. It doesn’t take long. Fish them out of the pan with a slotted spoon, drain on toweling, and season lightly. Set aside.
In the same pan, add:
1 pound of Brussels sprouts, trimmed and cut in half lengthwise
1 small diced purple onion
Place the sprouts cut-side down in the pan, top with the onions, season with salt and pepper, and turn the heat up to just slightly over medium.
Keep an eye on them, and using tongs, turn them over as they brown. Once they are all browned, mix things up a bit to distribute the onions, and turn them again to the second side.
Turn the heat back down and continue to cook for a couple of minutes. Test with a paring knife, until the sprouts are where you want them. I like them just barely cooked through, but others will like them softer. Correct seasoning if necessary.
Plate, drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar and sprinkle with the reserved garlic chips.
Crispy shallots
If you don’t care for garlic, you can top these with crispy shallots, and this year, our farm stands offer really big ones. These are easy to make, quite tasty and also go well with asparagus, green beans or really just about any vegetable. Use them for a soup topping as well, or tuck them in a sandwich.
Just take a couple large shallots, cut into thin rings, place in a small saucepan and cover with olive oil. Bring to a simmer and cook slowly until they are browned. Keep an eye on them.
Place on a towel to drain, sprinkle with salt. Strain the oil and use for other purposes; you can drizzle this on soup or vegetables, brush on baguette slices or flavor a vinaigrette. It’s a delightful byproduct.