A brief overview of some indigenous Vermont crops

Andrea Knepper, University of Vermont Extension

Several crops have been cultivated in Vermont for centuries by Indigenous Abenaki tribes. Of great significance to the Abenaki are the “seven sisters” — corn, beans, squash, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke, ground cherry and tobacco.

Carbon dating of corn cobs recovered from archaeological sites in Vermont reveals that corn was cultivated as early as 1110 AD. A reliable variety for home gardeners, available today from commercial suppliers, is Roy’s Calais corn.

Calais corn is a flint corn, which means it is best used for cornmeal and making hominy because of its lower sugar content. Its presumed origin lies with the western Abenaki (Sokoki) in Vermont although it was named after Roy Fair who cultivated this variety on his North Calais farm for more than 50 years in the 1900s.

Photo by Andrea Knepper. Roy’s Calais corn, Jacob’s cattle beans, ground cherries and sunflowers are four of the “seven sisters,” crops of cultural and ceremonial significance to indigenous Abenaki tribes that can be grown in northern gardens.
Photo by Andrea Knepper. Roy’s Calais corn, Jacob’s cattle beans, ground cherries and sunflowers are four of the “seven sisters,” crops of cultural and ceremonial significance to indigenous Abenaki tribes that can be grown in northern gardens.

According to regional lore, Jacob’s cattle beans were gifted by the Passamaquoddy community in Maine to the first child born to European settlers in the 1600s. These red and white speckled kidney beans are highly regarded by chefs for use in baked beans and soups and readily available in many local grocery stores.

East Montpelier squash is a native Vermont variety with an exciting history. This winter squash was on the verge of extinction when seed was found in 2014 in Orange County. Work is still underway to bring it back to its original characteristics as the seed found had been crossed with blue Hubbard squash.

In time, this squash may become more available at local markets. If you are able to find one, it is reportedly a delicious squash with generous yielding plants, high flesh content, edible seeds and many culinary uses.

Sunflower cultivation in our region was first documented in 1615 by explorer Samuel de Champlain. It is believed that the white-seeded Morrisville sunflower may be the variety he refers to in his report, in which he notes that oil was harvested from the sunflowers. The seeds have a thin coat so can be eaten whole. These seeds would have been valuable as a long-storing food source to the Abenakis and early settlers.

Stands of Jerusalem artichokes, or sunchokes, can be seen along many Vermont riverbanks. These clusters of tall plants with vibrant yellow flowers resembling small sunflowers bloom in late fall. Researchers believe that the Abenakis planted sunchokes at their campsites. The tubers can be harvested after a hard frost and prepared in many ways, similar to potatoes.

Ground cherries, also known as husk tomatoes, are an interesting fruit with a taste that is best described as weird but tasty. Vaguely citrusy, somewhat sweet yet tart with a surprisingly less sweet aftertaste, ground cherries can be used in both sweet and savory preparations.

The tobacco historically grown by the Abenaki people is used solely for ceremonial purposes and is considered sacred. The cultivation and care of this crop was the responsibility of the men, who grew tobacco in small, fenced-in plots and dried both the flowers and leaves to smoke.

During the growing season, all of these varieties can be viewed in the demonstration garden, maintained using traditional Abenaki methods, at the Vermont Indigenous Heritage Center at the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum in Burlington. This also is the home of the Seeds of Renewal project, which protects indigenous seeds and maintains and documents ancestral horticultural and culinary information.